5 of these are clustered around the south-west corner of Spain, so we decided to have a tour around the Andalusian cities of Cordoba, Seville, Jerez de la Frontera, Cadiz and Granada.
Whilst there we can call in at Gibralter, and visit Tarifa, which at 36 ° latitude is the southernmost point in Europe.
We have decided to take the big central table out of Cervantes, and will spend this trip evaluating if we can do without it, or if we need to reinstate it.
- Distance travelled 2151 kms
- Travelling time 49hrs 13mins
- Average fuel consumption 9.91 litres/100 kms (28.51mpg)
- Amount of fuel used 213.11 litres
- Cost of fuel used €289.18
- Nights away 25
- Nights in campsites 11 at a cost of €176
- Nights in free aires 11 at no cost
- Nights in paid aires 3 at a cost of €35.20
- Nights wildcamping 2 at no cost
- Cost of supermarket shopping €227.35
- Cost of entrance charges, bus, rail and boat fares €104.4
- Cost of meals out, beers and breakfast €200.55
- Books read Writing Home - Alan Bennett, Anything Goes - Billy Hopkins, Whatever Next - Billy Hopkins, The Day Kennedy Was Shot - Jim Bishop, Notes From A Small Island - Bill Bryson, Notes From A Big Country - Bill Bryson, Give Me 10 Seconds - John Sergeant, A Moment To Remember - Dee Williams, The Pianist - Wladyslaw Szpilman, The Catcher In The Rye - J D Salinger
Monday 14/10/2013 Home to Mula
80kms in 1 hr 5 mins
We decided not to go too far on the first day so planned for a stop at the free aire (No 20126) at Mula.
The places near you are the ones you never really explore because you think you can go there anytime, but in reality you never go because they are so near and you can go anytime!
Mula is dominated by a castle on the hill above it. The old town is in need of a bit of TLC, but the dusty, run-down appearance adds to its old world charm. The narrow, steep, sometimes pedestrian-only streets at the base of the castle have some excellent architectural features - some preserved and some restored.
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| Narrow street to the castle |
The aire is at the polideportivo (sports centre) and we are the only ones here. We filled up with water OK and emptied the grey waste water, then went to walk the 1/2km to explore the town. We almost got to the castle at the top of the hill, but the track seemed to stop in a pile of rubble.
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| Can you spot Cervantes? |
Outdoor band practice Peter - any chance in Elland?
All done by 10:15 and a peaceful night and still 18° outside - wonderful weather. The obligatory dogs were barking all night, but I think we nust be getting used to them!!
Full photo gallery here
Tuesday 15/10/2013 Mula to Coto Rio
210kms in 4hrs 34mins
We arrived here (No 23441) after 6 hours in total on the road over mountain passes with lots of hairpin bends. The surface was good, we just had to watch for fast cars coming the other way due to the width of the road.
Fantastic scenery on the way here through the heart of the Parque Natural Sierras de Cazorla, Segura y Las Villas. We stopped to take in the view near to the source of the River Segura (which flows through Murcia city, then into the sea at Guadamar) and saw a herd of black goats being tended by a goatherd. The views were endless.
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| You can't separate a man and his goats (unless its for a particularly attractive sheep) |
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| Wonderful scenery |
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| A lovely remote spot |
We went for an explore around the area and discovered an 18km walk up the River Borosa so we will do that tomorrow.
At least 5 barking dogs all night non-stop from dusk to 4:30am (so Glyn informed me - I couldn't hear a thing because I succumbed to earplugs at 3am)
It was 5° outside at 8am (and 10° in Cervantes) so heating on in the van soon had us toasty warm until the sun came over the mountains.
Tonight's film was Inglorious Basterds - Brad Pitt.
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| What a pitch! |
Wednesday 16/10/2013
After a coldish night (for us!) the sun is out and there is not a cloud in the sky. The walk by the river was on a broad gravel path and offered great views of the river and its valley.
After 4km the broad path left the river and went steeply uphill. At the summit, after another 2km, we had our picnic on top of a rock looking at the river far below.
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| Picnic spot |
The route back was a different one, in that we followed the river all the way back to our starting point. There had been some imaginative engineering work to make a footpath down the valley - some of it looked exactly like the route to Thornton Force waterfall in Yorkshire - must have been the same engineer!!
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| Down the valley |
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| Watch out for the buitres (vultures!) |
Still just us and the German overlander on site so it is very, very peaceful during the day - we really are in the middle of nowhere.
The fridge is now working perfectly after being back to the dealer. After being re-sealed and having a new burner fitted, it is now -19° in the freezer and 4° in the fridge - just right for the chilled white wine!
We just happened to glance out of the window after sunset, and were treated to the sight of a full moon coming up over the mountains - stunning.
Tonight's film was Life of Brian - Monty Python
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| Almost a full moon |
Thursday 17/10/2013 Coto Rio to Chilluevar
49kms in 1hr 39mins
The trees are just turning to their autumn colours in the National Park, which made for a wonderful sight on our way to Cazorla town. More climbing up mountains on narrow, hairpin bends roads - great fun and fantastic views. Cervantes takes all this in his stride pulling uphill and holding back on the downhills like a good 'un - its a pleasure to drive.
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| This was the only place to safely stop all the way up and down |
We are in the heart of olive country here, surrounded in every direction by olive trees. In fact for the past 3 days we have driven through nothing but olives - the amount of olives and olive oil they must produce here cannot be imagined - the mind boggles!
Obviously we had to buy some genuine Cazorla olive oil and olives in Cazorla town, where we also found a local market, so stocked up on fruit and veg as well.
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| Olives, olives, olives, - as far as you can see and beyond! |
Tonight's film was Falling Down - Michael Douglas
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| Cervantes, all alone apart from the animals below |
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| A recipie for a lot of noise? |
Friday 18/10/2013 Chilluevar to Martos
191kms in 4hrs 11mins
The dogs were brilliant last night - barked when they were disturbed but otherwise fine.
After breakfast in the restaurant this morning, we went to Cazorla to take some photos of a really photogenic town.
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| Very narrow street in Cazorla |
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| Famous view from Cazorla of the church |
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| These streets never get any sun |
We found the aire with no trouble - it was in the car park of the polideportivo (sports centre), the only trouble being there was a massive fiesta in the sports centre and grounds. Everyone was dressed up in flamenco costumes with horses everywhere. The place was packed - no room to park, and if there had been, the feria would be on till the early hours - it looked like being a lively do.
Plan C was to go to another free aire (No 6481) in Martos. We couldn't face going through the middle of Jaen again (a bit of a nightmare to say the least), so took a route round the outside which left us on the wrong road. The only way to get to Martos was on a white road over the mountains, which we found, but it had a notice saying it was closed before Martos. We decided to take it anyway, and luckily followed a 7.5 tonne furniture truck most of the way who took an alternative route, and judging by his speed, he drove this road every day.
Martos has an old town and a new town. We arrived right in the middle of the old town. The only decent sized road to get out of the old town was closed for repairs, and the alternative looked very narrow and steep.We had to give it a go or go back the way we had come. At the top of a hair-raising hill we came to the cemetry car park!! However, just off the car park entrance was a very narrow, very steep lane - we had to take that - no option.
Luckily it led us eventually to a road wide enough to relax on, and thus to the co-ordinates of the aire. You've guessed it - no aire anywhere within a mile of the co-ordinates. Getting a bit tired now, so we wildcamped in a housing estate next to an industrial estate. What a day!!!
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| At last, thank goodness, somewhere to stay |
Saturday 19/10/2013 Martos to Villafranca de Cordoba
79kms in 1hr 14mins
We decided to stay in a campsite tonight for 2 reasons. One was to get some washing done and dried, and the other was to charge some things that we don't have 12v chargers for - toothbrush, razor, one phone and Blackberry tablet.
We chose an ACSI site at Villafranca de Cordoba called Camping La Albolafia for €16 per night. It was very quiet with good facilities and safe and secure.
We took the afternoon to explore Villafranca and what a pleasure it was - an excellent, well kept and presented town with plenty of facilities for all ages. Very, very tidy for a Spanish town, and full of very friendly people.
We found a very quirky, friendly bar which had just started broadcasting a football match between Real Madrid (Ronaldo et al) and Malaga. Real Madrid were all over them, with the Malaga goalkeeper playing a blinder. It would have been 20-0 but for him - some of his saves were unbelievable, but in the end it was 2-0 to Real Madrid. I'm not really a football fan (overpaid, underskilled nancies), but the skill level here was brilliant (as was the acting).
Then back for a remoska meal (only on electric hook-up) of Patatas Pilar and Tuna.
Tonight's film was The Big Kahuna - Kevin Spacey.
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| Excellent weather today |
Sunday 20/10/2013 Villafranca de Cordoba to La Guijarrosa
76kms in 1hr 48mins
Well today is a day we will remember for a long time!
We've been looking forward for a long time to seeing the Mezquita in Cordoba - heard so many stories about it - now looking forward to making our own mind up.
There is supposed to be an aire (search for Cordoba) in Cordoba nearly opposite the Mezquita. Near to this non-existent aire we were flagged into a wasteground carpark by a scruffy jack-the-lad character who wanted €7 for us to park and for him to watch the van. The "car park" was next to a cafe (where we had breakfast) and there were lots of other local cars there with local people handing money over to this guy, so we thought it would be OK.
While we were having breakfast the first guy disappeared, to be replaced by another one just as shady. He produced a newspaper cutting which had a picture of the first guy taking money for parking, and a long article about him being a known rogue who rips people off. The second guy said he shouldn't have charged us - the car park was free. He said he would watch the van till we came back. Whew, I thought - a lucky escape.
We walked around Cordoba for 3 hours, then came back to freshen up before going to the Mezquita.
When we got back to Cervantes, the window was open and the chenille curtains were caught in the closed door. The nearside window had been forced open breaking 3 of the 4 catches. The thieves had got in through the window, and had exited through the door, leaving the window wide open.
I don't know if we had disturbed them, someone else had disturbed them, or they had just lost their bottle, but nothing, absolutely nothing, had been touched. One thing absolutely sure is that one of the two lowlifes we encountered broke in, or more likely, got someone else to break in.
We had left a handbag in a prominent position full of useless rubbish for just such an occasion which had not been touched.
There was a netbook hidden above the cab, and bottles of spirits in full view in a plastic box on the floor - all untouched - they must have stepped over this to get out!
No cupboards, drawers or doors had been opened - it was as if they came in through the window, then straight out again through the door - what a lucky escape!
So really the van was not violated as such - just 3 broken window catches which I managed to bodge a repair on using zip ties (I knew they would come in useful!)
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| Broken catch is zip tied |
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| This is the only catch left intact, but zip tied for safety reasons |
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| Left hand catch snapped off |
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| As is the right hand one |
This is a lesson learned that you never, ever trust the lowlife "protection" operatives who purport to look after your van. We got away with this once in Cartagena, but never really felt 100% comfortable with it. The warning signs were there in Cordoba, for some reason we chose to ignore them. Believe you me, it will not happen again. At the first sign of some cowboy waving us on to a piece of wasteground, I will either drive straight past or run him over.
We had planned to find somewhere in Cordoba to spend the night, but this episode has shaken us a bit, so we decided to go for a bit of security tonight on an official aire.
We put the nearest one into the satnav and were there in 30 mins at La Carlota - no aire to be found anywhere in the vicinity. So, to the next nearest on in La Guijarrosa reached in 15 mins, but again the same story - this was a private house!
Finally found the fabulous Camping La Campina in La Guijarrosa for not much more than an ACSI site, with a wonderful welcome and lots of local info and bus timetables to Cordoba.
We will go on the bus tomorrow to Cordoba and will see the Mezquita.
On the plus side this ace campsite has a fantastic cat (called Fernando) who has been with us ever since we arrived. He likes salmon and rice and chocolate ice cream. To top it off there has been an absolutely stunning full moon tonight.
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| A nice welcome from a very friendly cat |
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| Now that's a full moon |
Monday 21/10/2013 La Guijarrosa to Cordoba
48kms in 1hr 5mins
When you've fallen off your horse, they say that the only way to carry on riding is to get straight back on again.
So here we are in the middle of Cordoba again. There is a paid aire in Cordoba, and 2:00pm found us checking it out.
I had a word with the parking guy in the box and explained our situation. He said "no problem" and allocated us 3 parking bays outside his box. The cost was €11 for 24 hours on a 24 hour manned car park with proper automated ticket machines and staff in uniforms. He even took the exact spot we had been broken into and used his contacts in the town hall to see if there was any CCTV footage of the incident. Sadly the answer was no, but the gesture meant so much more. This was a million miles away from yesterday - I got the impression that the guy was quite embarassed on behalf of the city of Cordoba.
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| Cervantes taking up his 3 bays |
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| The gardens were something else! |
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| Great view from the parapets |
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| An original, complete Roman mosaic |
We helped out a fellow French motorhomer with 25 litres of water - they had nearly run out. They were first time motorhomers in a borrowed van with 2 small children (their own, not borrowed) on board so were unsure of how things worked and what you had to do.
We went to the sound and light show at 10:00pm, and what a show it was! It turned out that it was something to rival The Bellagio Hotel in Las Vegas - dancing water fountains (in 4 different pools) to music and lights, which went on for 40 mins - brilliant and totally unexpected.
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| Fantastic light and water show |
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| Brillaint! |
Full photo gallery here
Tuesday 22/10/2013 Cordoba to Seville
158kms in 2hrs 59mins
We went to see the Mezquita in the morning. We'd obviously done some research and seen friends pictures of the inside, but the real thing is stunning - a Christian Catheredal inside a Muslim Mosque - what a sight - very, very impressive. There are no words that have not already been written.
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| Impressive or what? Lost for words! |
We then went west to see Madinat El-Zahra, which in its day (10th century) was much more prestigious and important than Cordoba. Unfortunately, due to internal politics in Andalucia, the city was ransacked and left as a shell. The reconstruction and interpretation are very impressive - well worth seeing. We walked through the ruins and pictured what we had just seen in the film presentation - it's hard to picture that degree of civillisation that long ago.
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| This was once bigger than Cordoba |
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| You're not going to see much from here! |
The wind is presently rocking the van and horizontal rain is battering the windows - it's not all sun, sea and sand you know!
The film tonight will be The Crying Game - Stephen Rea
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| Not a fit night out for man nor dog (luckily there are no dogs out tonight) |
Wednesday 23/10/2013
On the bus into Seville this morning in the rain for an explore. The streets were wide and traffic-free (mainly) with trams and many bikes using the plentiful cycle lanes.
The cathedral had just opened, so after identifying a good place for lunch, in we went. The queue to get in was huge, but moving, and we thought it would be packed in there when we got in - how wrong we were. The cathedral inside was huge and swallowed all the people with no problem.
The scale of things was enormous and almost too much to take in.
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| Seville catherdral |
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| A huge space inside |
There is a tall, square, moorish tower attached to one side of the cathedral which gives a clue to its history - a mosque, built in 1184, was re-consecrated as christian in 1248, demolished, and in its place was built in 1434 the biggest gothic cathedral in the world.
We were able to go up all that remained of the mosque - the tall moorish tower. The views from 100m up were fantastic - well worth the 33 floor climb.
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| All thats left of the mosque |
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| View of the catherdral from the top |
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| From the river |
Full photo gallery here
Thursday 24/10/2013 Seville to El Puerto de Santa Maria
130kms in 2hrs 6mins
Unusually for Spain, today is grey and overcast (but warm) so after shopping at Mercadona we headed for El Puerto de Santa Maria, which is half way between Jerez de la Frontera and Cadiz.
On the way we saw some extraordinary structures from the motorway - they looked like rockets ready for take-off. We decided we had to investigate, so left the motorway and headed for them. When we got up close they were what looked like religious towers with bells in them and a large central dome. They were surrounded by a very high wall, but with no discernable entrance or signage - visitors were definitely not welcome. We drove to the town to see if any info was forthcoming, but nothing - no signs, no acknowledgement of it even being there, even though it dominated the town.After a search it turns out that the Palmarian Catholic Church is an Independent Catholic Church, with its own pope, bishops and nuns - you couldn't make it up could you?
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| Impressive |
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| Is this the new home of International Rescue? |
There is a campsite up the road so we visited to get some local info and maps. It seems there are 7 sherry bodegas in Santa Maria, where you can see how sherry is made and taste the result - looks like that's tomorrow taken care of!
We are now on the Atlantic coast so will not be swimming (although some people were!)
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| Cervantes getting sandblasted |
Full photo gallery here
Friday 25/10/2013 El Puerto de Santa Maria to El Puerto de Santa Maria
2kms in 12mins
After an overcast evening, the weather finally broke, as forecasted, at 3am with torrential rain, thunder and lightning. This continued until 10am, then was on and off till 1pm.
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| A 9" deep puddle between us and the only way out |
We wanted to go on a sherry tour, but the Osborne tour (of the famous bull) had already taken place, and was booked solid until Tuesday.
One did a tour on Saturday morning, but the rest were just bodegas selling bulk wine out of the barrels with no tours. The last one on our list was Bodega Gonzalez Obregon, which was a bodega cum bar which had a solitary beer tap, but the walls were lined with sherry barrels which were all full, and where the sherry was served from. The whole thing was like stepping back in time 40 years. Nothing had changed in that time, including the original bullfighting posters and pictures. We got chatting to a couple of suited gents who worked in a bank around the corner. He told us that if we wanted a "Bristol Cream" sherry, to mix Oloroso with Pedro Ximenez half and half - how did he know what Bristol Cream tasted like? - maybe he worked in England for a while. He also said it was fantastic in hot soup.
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| This is what you call a dining room |
We were also introduced to an aged Torreador who had his poster, amongst many others, on the wall. He was happy to pose for a picture with Glyn - luckily no swords in evidence, thank goodness.
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| Not quite as slim as he once was, but still a danger to bulls |
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| Sherry from the barrel, and the bullfighters picture top left |
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| Our purchases, now sadly gone (only kidding) |
We sat at the bar with some fried fish tapas and a couple of sherries (how butch does that sound?) and watched the humour and professionalism of the waiters/waitresses who took everything in their stride, and made us very welcome by including us in the conversation and jokes of the bar - wonderful place.
The rain held off after 2pm, and a warm wind off the Atlantic made the temperature pleasantly warm.
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| A rather soggy pitch |
Saturday 26/10/2013
A bodega sherry tour was on the itinerary this morning.We spotted it yesterday only 15mins walk away on the seafront.
What a fabulous €5 worth it turned out to be. A proper family business with a very personable young lady who explained how sherry came into being, and how it was made in great detail.
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| Just the right conditions for sherry maturing |
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| The flor (yeast) on top of the sherry determines what type it will be |
Then a train to Jerez de la Frontera (€3.80 each return) to explore what that had to offer. The train station at Jerez was a monument to its past in the structure of the building, but was very modern in its operation.
The town of Jerez was frankly a little tired and very, very quiet. We tried several bodegas for tours, but it seems they only work from Mon to Fri. The only tour we found open was the enormous bodega at Gonzales-Byass which opened at 5pm
We paid our €12.50 each for a tour and a taste of 2 types of sherry - Tio Pepe Fino and Croft Pale. The building was huge, but with good explanations and a train (tractor) ride through the extensive private gardens and a small vineyard
The tour then got a bit corporate, and showed us through the catering and function facilities, ending in a very high tech tasting room where we had our 2 sips of sherry.
The only exit out of the complex was through the very expensive shop - needless to say we still have all our money with us.
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| Big business |
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| Corporate entertainment is the name of the game at Gonzales-Byass |
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| The pet (drunk) mouse in the 1950's |
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| I could've been a sherry baron |
Full photo gallery here
Sunday 27/10/2013
To Cadiz today.
We took the boat over from Santa Maria (€2.60 for a 30min journey). The clocks went back last night so we wondered if we had got it right, or if the boat company had got it right, but no disasters - the boat sailed to the new time. The journey was calm (for the Atlantic) and in warm bright sunshine.
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| Our transport to Cadiz |
Cadiz is steeped in history with some fabulous buildings and is a blend of very new and very old, but managing to be very smart at the same time.
We toured the cathedral which is made of shell limestone which is crumbling under the attack of the Atlantic sea air. It is a huge space inside, very simple but with an impression if immense space and height. The stone roof is crumbling so there are fine nets halfway up the walls to stop bits of stone falling on your head.
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| The imposing cathedral in Cadiz |
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| Lots of space inside |
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| Spectacular views from the bell tower |
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| Roman remains under a glass floor |
The film tonight was The Martins - Lee Evans, Kathy Burke
Full photo gallery here
Monday 28/10/2013 El Puerto de Santa Maria to Sanlucar de Barrameda
39kms in 1hr 1min
We are staying tonight on a free aire (No 23984) in Sanlucar de Barrameda. We have a river and sea view at the mouth of the River Guadalquivir - the river that runs through Seville.
On the other side of the river from us is the biggest wetland National Park in Europe called Parque Nacional de Doñana. Unfortunately there seems to be no roads going through it, and no obvious way of getting into it. A shame because it would have been a great place to visit.
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| Cervantes facing the sea |
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| I hope this doesn't meet anything coming the other way! |
We hear the UK is being battered by wind and floods this week - sorry!!
The film tonight was Angelas Ashes - Robert Carlyle
Full photo gallery here
Tuesday 29/10/2013
A day to explore Sanlucar, the third point of the "Sherry Triangle" (the other 2 being Jerez de la Frontera and El Puerto de Santa Maria). Here you can find Manzanilla sherry, just as dry as Fino, but due to the proximity of the Atlantic Ocean, which makes the atmosphere much more humid, the flor (the yeast topping on the sherry in the barell) is 3 times as thick. This gives it a much drier, sharper, more acidic, saltier taste than Fino.
The first bodega we tried wouldn't accept us for a tour because we were 50% lacking (minimum of 4 people for a tour), and the second bodega tour had set off 10 mins earlier, so said we had to come back tomorrow. I suspect the tour will be the same as we have already seen - just the tasting at the end will be different. (But we already have a bottle of Manzanilla in the fridge)
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| Bodegas in Sanlucar include Manzanilla sherry |
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| How would you get these home without them crawling out of your carrier bag? |
All was well until I turned up a cockroach leg under a calamari ring.
Needless to say the waiter came out with a 3 minute sentence of unintelligible Spanish with lots of gesturing to the fish (claiming it was a fish bone!) when we brought it to his attention.
He then brought us the "postre", which was a choice between a cellaphane wrapped pan au chocolat, or a cellophane wrapped pan au chocolat - you guess!
It's a good job we've got a sense of humour!
We then went to a REAL authentic bar (owned and run by the bodega La Gitana) and had a couple of glasses of Manzanilla to hopefully negate the cockroach infestation.
The castle in Sanlucar was a revelation - brilliantly brought back to life by skillful renovation, and told us a story of history and intrigue - we would thoroughly recommend this for a visit. The views from the top of the tower were fantastic, and we were the only ones there for the whole of our 40 mins self-guided tour.
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| The view from the tower |
Old maps are great to study and there were 2 rooms full of them in the castle - we could have stayed for hours.
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| The view from our window tonight |
Tonight's film was Let Him Have It - Chris Eccleston.
Full photo gallery here
Wednesday 30/10/2013 Sanlucar de Barrameda to Arcos de la Frontera
80kms in 2hrs 1min
We are heading for Arcos de la Frontera today - a town with two churches on top of an enormous hill.
The Aire (No 6574) we were heading for does not exist at the co-ordinates shown, so the satnav took us through the town centre - up the hill then back down again through some extremely narrow gaps where we all had to breathe in, but we made it in the end.
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| Narrow or what? |
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| Meson de la Molinera on his right, Molinera on his left |
We climbed some impossibly steep and narrow streets to get to the churches, but were rewarded with magnificent views and could just see Cervantes, who was safe and intact when we got home.
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| Arcos on a cliff |
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| Can you see Cervantes? |
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| The climb is worth the view |
The 4 course meal was superb with seafood salad, meat and potato stew (a meal in itself), merluza (hake) and potatoes and ice cream or rice pudding to finish. Including bread and a glass of wine the cost was just €8.50 each - fantastic value - we really know how to celebrate!
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| The view from our window |
Thursday 31/10/2013 Arcos de la Frontera to Alcala de los Gazules
79kms in 1hr 35mins
On our way to the south coast we needed a campsite to do some washing and charge the mains only stuff.
On the way we called in at Medina-Sedonia which was a hilltop town with an intact church at the top. It was very honest and original and not over the top on the tourist info - enough to know where you were, but not too much to be sick of it. A really nice balance to the place and some excellent streets and views - you could see El Puerto de Santa Maria and Cadiz from the church at the top.
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| The church at the top |
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| It's a bit steep |
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| You can see Santa Maria and Cadiz from the top (50kms away) |
What we hadn't realised is that tomorrow is a bank holiday in Spain, so making it a long weekend. We'd got the last pitch on the campsite, which unfortunately was next to the loudest woman in the campsite/Andalucia/Spain, with the least manners. It looks like it's going to be a long night.
Used silicone earplugs at 11pm and never heard a thing all night. Apparently the festivities went on till 3am - no different to being at home with the Feria just down the road from us, with events regularly finishing at 6am.
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| Cervantes taking it all in his stride |
Full photo gallery here
Friday 01/11/2013 Alcala de los Gazules to Tarifa
97kms in 1hr 58mins
To Tarifa, the most southerly point in mainland Europe (and the windiest).
We travelled through some really pretty countryside to get here today - much of it like the Yorkshire Dales.
Tarifa itself was a bit utilitarian - there for a purpose with no frills. We didn't feel safe at the aire (No 23750) in the middle of Tarifa, so we drove to the outskirts and parked at aire (5921) after an assault course approach which really tested how well we had packed things away. Luckily nothing broken inside and the springs were all intact, and now we were on the beach amongst all the kitesurfers and windsurfers with a great atmosphere in a great spot.
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| The view from our window |
We were amazed at how close Morocco actually is. You can see it across the straights as clear as day - the mountains opposite are massive and have had cloud on the top of them for most of today. It is only 7 miles away - so close we have Arabic channels on our TV.
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| The mountains just over the water in Morocco - Tarifa is in the foreground |
I feel almost embarassed being here and having no equipment (or skill) to go on the water. The wind here is fierce and constant (ask Glynis), although it does change direction a lot but it is still warm - even for November.
There is a very heavy traffic flow of ships through the straights - everything that comes into or out of the Mediterranean comes through here, so there is a constant stream of tankers, cruise liners, container ships and private vessels.
We had a visitor just before tea on the cadge for something to eat - he never even knocked!
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| What's to eat? |
We can see Africa out of our windscreen!!!
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| All quiet in Tarifa |
Full photo gallery here
Saturday 02/11/2013 Tarifa to Marbella
168kms in 3hrs 33mins
If I were to tell you that we are on a nudist beach listening to a real live Elvis, you would probably be forgiven for thinking that we had had too many prescription drugs and cava..........but it's true!!
It all started very innocently with a trip to Gibralter.
Tarifa was pitch black and very quiet last night - perfect with perfect views and lots of "fit young men" (Glyn's words, not mine. If only she knew what was to come!)
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| Morocco in the early morning sun |
We were on a roundabout just about to enter the road to the border control to Gibralter, when we were stopped by a scruffy, thin shifty bloke carrying a money purse. I lowered the window 10cms and he said "You English". I nodded. He said "€20 to get into Gibralter". I shook my head. He scribbled some rubbish on the corner of the windscreen with a yellow highlighter pen and again asked for the money. I asked him for his ID and authorisation documents to collect money. He didn't make eye contact, he just almost ran past me up the line of traffic, so we just drove off and got through the border with no problem. Just another scam artist preying on the naive and vulnerable (as I suppose we were in Cordoba).
It was a doddle to get into Gibralter, but a bit of a nightmare to drive to the aire (No 4949) at Europa point - the furthest point south. When we got there it was obvious that motorhomes were NOT welcome. We couldn't even park legally for 5 mins to take some pictures for fear of a fine or being towed away (but we did anyway).
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| Cervantes in Gib (parked illegally) |
We headed for an aire (No 21116) just past Marbella, but unfortunately a market was just finishing there, so we went 6kms back towards Marbella to the ACSI campsite of Camping Cabopino. A sign outside said they were full, but we went in and negotiated a pitch amongst the cabins.
It was only 3:30pm, so we decided to go for a walk on the beach - only 300m away.
It all started very well, but then deteriorated into lots of dangly things everywhere when we discovered that the beach was a naturist one, the majority of couples being men. Nothing wrong with that - just a bit of a shock when you're not expecting an eyeful.
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| Ooo-err |
We were in a state of shock so a stiff one was called for in the local bar where, to our great suprise, Elvis was alive and well and singing in 5 minutes!
Glass of wine in hand we were serenaded by the great man (he hasn't aged a bit) with all of his greatest hits. To be fair he was not bad at all. (You couldn't make this up could you?)
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| Elvis is alive and well and living in Marbella |
Grasping at the thought of some normality, we headed for Cervantes for tea, a film and bed!
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| Someone else looking for a free meal - he got one |
Full photo gallery here
Sunday 03/11/2013 Marbella to Olvera
132kms in 2hrs 23mins
A very peaceful night in Marbella (they're still partying - thank you earplugs)
We have identified a good looking campsite between Ronda and Antequera, so heading over the mountains to Ronda first - hoping to look round as the last time we were here was 20 years ago.
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| It's all uphill to Ronda |
The road to Ronda has been improved greatly, and is now well surfaced and reasonably wide. However, motorbikes are out in force today (just like Sunday in the Yorkshire Dales), and just like bikers everywhere, some of them take enormous risks in overtaking and cornering. This was brought home very graphically on one corner where a prostrate biker was being given fluids by paramedics from two ambulances, whilst his bike and the car he had hit were further up the road.
The narrow streets of Ronda are not conducive to motorhomes, so we were going to park at the feria, near the polideportivo, but it appears that today is market day and it is absolutely chock-a-block with cars and people.
We don't want to leave Cervantes unattended here, so decide to leave the car park. The only trouble is the police won't let you out the way you came in. There was a diversion onto a dirt road through an olive grove which was quite unusual (and bumpy!).
We continued to the ACSI Camping Pueblo Blanco just outside the lovely village of Olvera, with a church and castle on top of a hill, with a white village below it.
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| The lovely village of Olvera |
The site was full to bursting when we got here, but by 7:00pm there was only us and 4 other vans - the bank holiday weekend has definitely finished.
The views from here are stunning, and the site is so good we have decided to stay for 2 nights.
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| What a view |
The sunset is going to be awesome.
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| Olvera at night |
Full photo gallery here
Monday 04/11/2013
After a coolish night, sunrise today was really bright, but within 10 mins the mist had closed in, and visibility was down to 100m.
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| Early morning sun on Olvera |
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| 10 mins later |
The town was very genuine and honest - no frills and no concession to tourism - just what we like.
The castle and church are closed on Mondays, but on enquiring at the tourist info office, the lady said she could open the castle for us if we wanted.
We willingly accepted, and for €2 each had a good explore of the castle. I'm not too good with heights, and some of the castle walls were really low and exposed, and we were a long way up. On the other hand the views were fabulous.
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| The church from the castle |
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| Yes - we are a long way up |
Sure enough it was a homemade, freshly cooked tortilla which tasted divine.Wine was €1 per glass (for very good wine) and tapas was just €2 - proper food at proper prices - our kind of bar!!
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| Fantastic little private 16 seater dining room off the bar |
Still only us and 4 vans here on this big site - really quiet and great views.
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| Sunset in a peaceful setting |
Full photo gallery here
Tuesday 05/11/2013 Olvera to Humilladero
75kms in 1hr 32mins
Another misty start, and quite cold in the night.
Our first stop was to find an aire on the old Olvera railway station (now closed) which is now on a Via Verde (green road) on the route of the old railway line.You can walk or cycle the path for 30+ kms. The aire looks very good and it is noted for a future visit.
On the road out, we stopped for breakfast at a country cafe (toast and coffee) which was served properly with a clove of garlic to rub into the toast prior to the olive oil and tomato - the proper way to do it.
On our first ever serious tour we visited Camping La Sierrecilla in Humilladero, and even though it was in torrential rain, we thought it was quite nice with a lot of potential and would like to return - so here we are.
It turns out by speaking to the owner, that the site in Olvera is also owned by him - both sites of first class quality and service.
The weather looked a bit ominous so we took waterproofs and set off for a 7kms walk through the woods at the rear of the site. Luckily no rain, and good walking through pine forest on good tracks.
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| More olives |
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| Washing! |
Wednesday 06/11/2013 Humilladero to Beas de Granada
124kms in 1hr 35mins
Having been to the Alhambra, again on our first ever trip in Cervantes (when it was freezing cold), we wanted to go to the hill opposite where the Albayzin was - the old Moorish quarter.
We had an easy 90 mins journey on the good road from Humilladero, and stayed at Camping Alto de Viñuelas in Beas de Granada - fabulous place with views of the Sierra Nevada. There is so much walking in the National Park to do here - we have marked this as a place to return to soon.
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| Sierra Nevada in the background |
After a steep walk uphill to the city walls of the Albayzin, we walked through the small, narrow, steep streets looking for a view of the Alhambra (we had been to the Alhambra in Feb so knew what we were looking for).
We found a church square with a reasonably good view, but explored further and found El Balcon de San Nicolas - what a fabulous view of the Alhambra through half glass windows, with couches to sit on, dining tables if needed, a great waitress and some ace music (could have been my i-pod!)
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| Perfect |
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| Salmon |
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| Lasagne |
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| and sweet |
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| Wow! |
Full photo gallery here
Thursday 07/11/2013 Beas de Granada to Velez-Rubio
153kms in 1hr 54mins
Nice, easy, quiet, fast drive to Velez-Rubio today to an aire (No 10884) on the feria ground. Again, as is common in Spain, there were no signs for the aire, and the route into it was a bit tortuous, but we got there in the end.
Only us here, but it looks and feels safe enough, so off to explore the town.
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| All alone in Velez-Rubio |
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| Very impressive church |
We found a very cheap bar doing some very good business which has been earmarked for breakfast tomorrow (toast and coffee for €1.50).
The aire has a charge of €5, but the town hall is shut, so we will await the collector to pay him.
There has been bright sun all day and it is unseasonably warm for November.
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| Great sunset tonight |
Full photo gallery here
Friday 08/11/2013 Velez-Rubio to Home
151kms in 1hr 50mins
Breakfast was great followed by an easy run on the motorway to home. Empty motorway meant 100kmh all the way.
Home for 1:30pm
Conclusions
Removing the enormous table (useful if you are entertaining, but otherwise i.e. 95% of the time, it is an obstacle to manoeuvre round) was a good move and freed up so much space.
I have not banged my head once on this trip, which speaks for itself.
The small table we replaced it with is adequate, but needs to be higher, so the hunt is on.
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| The big original table |
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| Small portable table can be removed to give lots of space |
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| Cool T-shirt |
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| Don Quixote on the back |
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| and with his squire Sancho Panza on the side |
The cities visited were everything we thought they would be - as spectacular and grand as imagined.
The break-in was a bit of a shock, but was 95% our fault for being drawn in by the lowlife offering parking. Be certain that it will never happen again.
The sherry triangle was fantastic with a massive contrast between big business and family run.
The wilderness areas we went to - Cazorla National Park and Tarifa especially were excellent and were totally unspoilt so could be enjoyed for what they were.
Olvera will also be remembered as a fantastic place.
The people we met and things we saw will last in our memories (and this blog!) for a long time.
Where next?
Hi, I'm so glad your blog is continuing. I love reading it and seeing all the places you have been to.I
ReplyDeletewas saddened to hear you had been "had " by one of the pond lifers at that car park. You were lucky the damage to your vehicle was relatively minimal.
Best of luck on your adventures.
Keef
Thanks Keith, nice to know you're still with us. Can't expect to do 15000kms and have nothing go wrong! As long as we keep a sense of humour we will be fine - got to keep things in perspective. Glad you're enjoying it - another one coming soon.
DeleteCheers
B&G