Le Tour de France July 2013

It was the 100th edition of the Tour de France, we have a motorhome and have all the free time in the world. After avidly following and going to watch the Tour for the last 20 years, at last, a British rider (Chris Froome) was favourite to make it 2 British champions in 2 years (Bradley Wiggins last year) for the same team (Sky).
How could we not go?
We planned to see mountain stages in the Pyrenees and the Alps, and if it all went to plan, to see a British winner of this special TDF.
To see if it all worked out - read on......

TOTAL TOUR STATISTICS

• Distance travelled     3606 kms
• Travelling time     71hrs 18mins
• Average fuel consumption     9.78 litres/100 kms (28.88 mpg)
• Amount of fuel used     349.3 litres
• Cost of fuel used     €461.92
• Nights away     30
• Nights in campsites     0
• Nights in free aires     14 at no cost
• Nights in paid aires     4 at a cost of €28.60
• Nights wild campimg     12 at no cost
• Cost of motorway tolls     €28.70 (to get to Alpe d'Huez on time, and to cross Millau Viaduct)
• Cost of food     €635.02
• Cheese eaten     5 Camembert, 1 Roquefort, 1 Brie, 1 Perac, 1 Reblochon, 1 Langres,

Monday 01/07/2013 Home to Oliva
198kms in 3 hrs 24mins

To see route in Google maps click here.

Found a free aire in Oliva (number 1475) which we thought we'd try. We had a plan B to go to a paid aire at Denia if the free one was full or a bit dodgy, but what a suprise - it was a lovely small site for 16 vans with free water and electric! It is right next to a campsite and 50m from a fantastic sandy beach, and once again we were the only ones here.
We sneaked in to use the facilities of the campsite next door, but did buy from their shop to compensate (local wine from a barrel - bring your own container - €1.60 per litre and very very good)

Catching some sun

All alone in Oliva

Lovely empty beach

Full photo gallery here



Tuesday 02/07/2013   Oliva to Amposta
281kms in 3hrs 45mins

To see route in Google maps click here

We spotted the Ebro delta on a map a few months ago and thought - that looks an interesting place - and here we are. Campingcar-infos is a French website listing all the aires possible in all of Europe. This is how we found this site (number 16354), right in the middle of the Ebro Delta National Park. Run by the restaurant next door it has free places, fresh water, and grey and black water disposal. The views are to die for, and the cycling is brilliant - a birdspotters paradise, so much so that you never get more than 1/2 km cycling before you're off your bike again and looking and listening to something unknown but entrancing.
Miles (and I mean miles) from anywhere, the silence is deafening (apart from the usual cockerels, donkeys, dogs cats and birds!)
This is relaxation at its best - so good we're here tomorrow as well.

The wetlands were full of wildlife

One of the many canals

Well muggins here (Glynis) forgot we weren't on hook-up so couldn't use Remoska to cook the evening meal in, so had to resort to the gas hob in the van. We ended up with what looked like 'corned beef hash' although instead of corned beef it was Iberico chorizo (happy pigs) mixed with potatoes, onions, garlic, stock cube, lentils and green peas - yummy!!

Re Chenille curtains - we'd seen these on a lot of vans over the winter. For those of us who don't have 'fitted flyscreen' doors, they are a cheap and cheerful option to stop flies/mossies getting in through the van door.

"Yes" said the guy who sold us one, "they can be cut to size", but when we cut it to size, it frayed on the end and all the Chenille started to fall off. I had to dig out the sewing kit (oh where is my sister when I need her!!) and sew each one - all 13 of them. Poor Bri was threading needles frantically for me - something he has never done in all his 59 years!!

Once again all alone

Full photo gallery here

Wednesday 03/07/2013

Today we decided to explore the delta de Ebre (River Ebro Delta) by bike. What an amazing place - loads of cycle paths amidst the wild natural areas full of wildlife and the managed areas where the rice is grown. Hardly anybody about, lots of bird hides to observe the wildlife in peace - perfect.

No wonder I (Glyn) was flagging at the end - 38 kms in total, 15 of it along a sand road which connects the park to the mainland - very difficult to keep upright  on a 20" wheel bike!!

A welcome drink

Sand as far as you can see

An old fishing cottage

One of the many cycle paths

An out of focus Cervantes

Full photo gallery here

Thursday 04/07/2013  Amposta to Tremp

258 kms in 3hrs 57nins 

To see route in Google maps click here

9:00am start to get to Tremp in the foothills of the Pyrenees. Another free aire (number 10780) in a beautiful village with lots of history and a wonderful tree-lined rambla where you could eat and drink (which we did). 

The drive to here past Lleida went through some spactacular countryside with deep gorges and towering mountains. Scorching hot again in the high 30's. In view of the aire being freely supplied by the town, we thought it only right that we should put something back into the local economy, so the bodega got a visit for some local red and white wine, and very nice it was too. 

Tremp really is a very nice town, and is worthy of a much longer visit to explore what it has to offer. - now for the Tour!!!

Gorgeous countryside

A cool place to eat

On our own in Tremp

Full photo gallery here

Friday 05/07/2013   Tremp to Ax 3 Domaines

187kms in 4hrs 28mins

To see route in Google maps click here

Back on the excellent C13 road (same one as yesterday from Lleida) and today was just as good. Every village we passed through was perfect and just asking to be explored - we will definitely be back to this area - fantastic.

Passed through Andorra (mad drivers and v v cheap fuel - €1.06 for diesel) to get to Ax les Thermes, and then onto the climb to Ax 3 Domaines, a ski station at 1375m. Even though we were here at 3:00pm on the day before the Tour comes through, the mountain was packed with motorhomes - not a spot to be had anywhere. We eventually found a field near the top full of motorhomes and managed to squeeze into a place. This is our 5th night away, and we have not yet had to pay to stay anywhere! We are OK now re water and waste for another 4 to 5 days thanks to the facilities in Tremp.

Picture postcard pretty

Climbing from the valley floor

The high point in Andorra

On a slope

Full photo gallery here

Saturday 06/07/2013

So many people in such a small area! Very noisy night but the earplugs blocked out most of it, although we were parked on a slope so we were in danger of falling out of bed!

Beautiful sunny day and a fantastic atmosphere. We found a steep bend to watch the Tour from so set up our spot with 2 chairs, food and drink.

We met so many lovely people of all nationalities, and everybody shared what they had and helped each other.

The Tour was brilliant.

There were some very strange people walking about (the one on the left!)

Waiting for the Tour de France

Claiming our spot

Yorkshire were here to see what they are in for next year

Chris Froome on his way to victory and the yellow jersey

Richie Porte 51 seconds behind him

We took the cable car down to Ax les Thermes after the tour had finished and found the Sky team were staying there - lots of vehicles but no personnel.
We originally wanted to park on the road to the summit of Ax 3 Domaines but the roads were packed solid, so we ended up in a field with approx 150 other vans and tents. There was nowhere flat to park, so we levelled Cervantes as best we could and made the best of it. Unfortunately the slope was too much for the fridge (more than 5°) which stopped working so we had to eat and drink everything in it (almost).
A lot of people left after the Tour finished, but as we were not going till tomorrow morning, we decided to move the van to somewhere level to get the fridge working again. The only level spot was taken by a cycle tour company called Thomson Bike Tours. To speed things along we helped them pack up their tents etc, and in the process obviously got chatting to them - what a really nice couple running the franchise. We told them we were going to Mont Ventoux, as were they, so they invited us onto their site there if we couldn't find anywhere to park when we got there. Proper genuine friendly people - British, but living in Chamonix.

Cervantes on level ground from the cable car

The mechanics making sure everything works perfectly

If you win a stage you get a lion - and this is it

 Full photo gallery here



Sunday 07/07/2013   Ax 3 Domaines to Carcasonne
140kms in 2hrs 51mins

To see the route in Google maps click here

Leisurely drive off the Pyrenees, through the foothills and into Carcasonne. One of the many brilliant people we met yesterday said it was a must-see place, and how right he was. The guy in question was from Liverpool, but now living near Carcosonne with a building renovation business - booked up with work for the next 10 months! A great bloke, watching the Tour with his dad and various relatives.
Carcasonne has an ancient preserved walled city on a hill just outside the centre, and the free aire we stayed on was only a 10min walk away.
The old city is a great place with excellent renovation and genuine history in a fantastic setting.
Blisteringly hot today - so hot the fridge is struggling to keep cool, so we took the grilles off the outside to provide more ventilation, and kept that side of Cervantes out of direct sunlight - seemed to help but still struggling.
Excellent French countryside and roads on the way to Carcasonne - everything you imagine France to be.

Too hot for the horses

Well presented city walls

Don't let this picture fool you - there were hundreds of people there

Cervantes baking in the sun

Full photo gallery here



Monday 08/07/2013  Carcasonne to Vailhan
119kms in 2hrs 18mins

To see the route in Google maps click here

Very early start to Vailhan - off by 07:15am to avoid the charges on the aire. Great roads to a beautiful little village with an aire next to the church and overlooking a freshwater lake.
€5 collected by a man in a van at 6;00pm
Had a paddle in the lake and a picnic - brilliant day.

Surrounded by flowers

Freshwater lake at Vailhan

Church in the background

Bell towers at dusk

Full photo gallery here



Tuesday 09/07/2013  Vailhan to Ales
140kms in 3hrs 4mins

To see the route in Google maps click here

Off to Ales to a free aire by the river. Nice little town in the process of being updated. They've created a sandy beach by the river with sunbeds, umbrellas, beach volleyball, beach bars and boating - very inventive.
We've now learnt to park with the fridge away from the sun (the opposite of what we were doing before) It was 43° in the sun today, but the shaded side of the van was 'only' 30°, so the fridge now has a chance to work properly.

Wednesday 10/07/2013  Ales to Malaucene
135kms in 2hrs 36mins

To see the route in Google maps click here

Set off to get nearer to Mont Ventoux for the climb there on Sunday. Motorhomes have limited parking on the way up so we decided to get to another free aire at Malaucene at the foot of Ventoux for a night. This aire is usually €3 euros per night, but the charge had been suspended due the Tour passing through. We needed to refill the fresh water tank and empty the grey and black water to be ready for 4 nights on the mountain! We also stocked up on food, water and of course drinks!
Managed to do some washing which was pegged up around the outside of the van in glorious hot sun, but suddenly thunder clouds appeared and we had to get everything in before a massive rainstorm. The aire was full of motorhomes so we will have to set off early to bag a good spot ....

Waiting to go up the mountain

Full photo gallery here



Thursday 11/07/2013   Malaucene to Mont Ventoux
23kms in 44mins

To see the route in Google maps click here

An early start to fill up with fresh water and empty grey and black water before setting off for Ventoux.
An uneventful climb up the mountain - each hairpin revealing a breathtaking view as we went higher and higher. Finally at the top at 1912m we went down the other side (where the Tour is coming up on Sunday) to find a good spot to park. 2km from the top we saw where we wanted to be - 4 hairpin bends from the top where the action would start to decide the winner.

It was, of course, sloping downhill - we are on Mont Ventoux! We dug some holes for the rear wheels to drop into and put some rocks under the front ramps. It was liveable, not perfect, but only 2km from the finish. We are above the tree-line here and the landscape is like the moon - no vegetation apart from the amazing alpine flowers which peek out from the limestone scree.

We were concerned about the fridge not working again due to the slope, and the fridge pointing west into the hot afternoon sun. However it seems to be performing OK given a bit of help from the shade of the awning - oh dear, freezer thawing slightly so had to eat all the Ben and Jerry's in one go.
Remoska has been out of action all this tour due to no 230v hook up, so improvising on the gas hob. Tonight it's crispy stir-fried tofu, onions, garlic, red peppers, harissa, pimenton and bulgar wheat - fantastic.
Another thunderstorm and ferocious wind at tea time (tofu!) meant we had to get all the flags, chairs, floor coverings and table (and golden cone - yes it's here!) inside before the heavens opened. 
We now have our spot and are just waiting for Sunday when the 100th Tour de France passes our front door.
Our trusty status aerial (no satellite in this van) is easily picking up freeview French TV wherever we go so we can watch the Tour every day.

Bleak?

You bet!

That's 30km down to the valley behind us

On top of the world

and me as well

What a view!

Flying the flag

                                        

Full photo gallery here

Friday 12/07/2013

With a great spot on the mountain secured, we went for a 10km walk over the summit, along the ridge, down to the road then back up to the summit. Great views but got low cloud towards the end.

At the summit we met our good friend from Thomson Bike Tours who had run up Ventoux 6km from where she had set up camp - very impressive feat (and feet!) If we hadn't been here early and got this good spot we would have joined them at their camp - very nice people. They are going to Alpe d'Huez so may see them there.

The top

The view through our skylight

On the edge

Full photo gallery here

Saturday 13/07/2013

There is a constant stream of cyclists climbing Mont Ventoux and then whizzing down after reaching the top, one of whom was Reid Anderson, secretary of the Calderdale branch of the Cyclists Touring Club (CTC). He stopped on the way down for a chat after seeing our flags. Coincidence would have it that we were both from the same town in West Yorkshire. Glyn took our picture under the flags, and would you believe it, the picture and a write-up appeared in the Halifax Courier - my local paper for 18 years!!

A mention in what was our local paper in UK

 There are also many, many motorhomes cruising up and down looking for the smallest space to park in. We already have one in front of us squeezed in. I suspect another will squeeze in behind  and possibly one alongside. Motorhomers - we park anywhere - no space too small!

There is a 30m drop 5cm behind the rear wheels of this brave French van!

As if to prove my point, Didi the devil (a legend on the TDF) squeezed his German VW camper into a non-existent gap 3 vans up from us in the afternoon, and proceeded to paint his trademark cycles on the road, one just next to Cervantes!

Suitably dressed, just waiting for the big day

A trademark Didi bike

Next to Cervantes!

Me and Didi - common language is cycling

Full photo gallery here

Sunday 14/07/2013

Bastille day today, and the French were hoping for a French winner on Mont Ventoux. Enter Chris Froome who broke away from the bunch at 4km to go, along with Quintana. They were both together when they passed us, but Froome dropped him with 1.5km to go and rode to a fabulous win, which puts him in the lead by 4 mins - an almost unassailable lead.

Chris Froome, just about to drop Quintana and ride to a famous victory

Watching him with us were Andy and Jason, who had driven 24 hours non-stop to get here from Huddersfield. They saw our flag and stopped to say hello. This was their first live view of a stage of the TDF, and what a stage! We could see the build-up on our TV, then live action past Cervantes, then watch the winner cross the line on TV again - what a fantastic atmosphere. Americans, Aussies (not pleased to hear the cricket result!) Dutch, French, German, Spanish, Brits, all here for one thing and getting on together fantastically - a true spirit of what cycling is about - proud to be a member!

The finish

One of the customers of Thomson Bike Tours run by our good friends

The 2km banner (Cervantes and flags in background)

Dan Martin suffering 2 mins 36 secs behind

Keep hydrated!

Cadel Evans (one of the favourites) having a nightmare and
finishing 8mins 46secs behind Froome

Thomas Voekler gurning (just for you Jason)

Pain and suffering

Only 2km to go!

Jason (Thomas Voekler fan) and Andy - great company

Is this a rival to the golden cone?

No here it is safe and well!

Didi the devil and our flags, courtesy of Eurosport

Full photo gallery here

Monday 15/07/2013   Mont Ventoux to Alpe d'Huez

318kms in 5hrs 26mins

To see the route in Google maps click here

Off Ventoux at 07:30am to get to Alpe d'Huez. Decided to go up the valley on the toll road (€26) through Orange and Valence to get there as soon as possible to get a good spot on the mountain for the stage on Thursday.

Andy and Jason had told us that the first van on Alpe d'Huez was there on June 22nd, and we can well believe it because we were here at 3:15pm and we drove the first 6 hairpins (of a total of 21) and the roads were totally full - not a square inch of space. We turned round and came back down, and found a superb place on a grass verge, just 800m outside Bourg d'Oisans - the start of the climb.

Flat, level and grass - luxury!!

The plan is to walk up the first 4 hairpins and see the race from there, then on Friday the start is from Bourg d'Oisans, so we can see that as well.

Flat, level and great views

A great pitch with a great view

Full photo gallery here

Tuesday 16/07/2013

Cycled to Bourg d'Oisans to get free Wi-Fi and contact the living. We called into the Tourist Info office and diicovered there is a free shuttle bus from Bourg to the top of Alpe d'Huez, so we waited at 2:00pm for it. There must have been 50 people on a 30 seater bus - chaos, with arms and legs everywhere - just like the Japanese underground. However, fantastic views and cold, fresh air at the top (35° in the valley). Had a great picnic at the top with the best views of the mountains and valleys - stunning.

The 21 hairpins were packed - motorhomes at crazy angles and far too near the edge.

Seem to have solved the fridge problem by changing the gas bottle - the old one was nearly empty, but the new full one has the freezer freezing and the fridge fridging.

Andy and Jason called round but we missed them - informed by the neighbours. - lots of Brits here climbing Alpe d'Huez. Hoping to catch up with them tomorrow.

Didi on his way up Alpe d'Huez on the wierdest of bikes

Stunning views from the top

30x zoom to see this - now they WOULD have a view!

                                      

Full photo gallery here

Wednesday 17/07/2013

Cycled round Bourg to see the build-up to the Tour, then along the riverbank. Shopping for tomorrow in Casino supermarket - like xmas eve in UK - very very busy. A welcome suprise visit from Jason and Andy who had just cycled up the Col de Glandon - proper cyclists! Watched the Tour with them on TV through the van door, then wished them well for their long drive home on Friday - well done guys.

The weather is looking cloudy and rainy for tomorrow - probably be welcomed by the cyclists!

Thursday 18/07/2013

Alpe d'Huez!!!

Set off at mid-day to climb as far up the mountain as we could. Hairpin 21 is at the bottom, and we stopped at hairpin 17 at 1000m. Great viewing spot, so got some good pictures.

Chris Froome safely home again, so it looks like he's almost won now - GO TEAM SKY!!

A massive time gap to the eventual winner

Riding under the flag of Yorkshire

Froome on the first climb just checking the time gap to the leader

Surrounded by team mates in case of problems

Pure concentration

Keep hydrated!

Generous applause from the multi-national crowd

Chris Froome on his second and final time up Alpe d'Huez
and on his way to victory in the 100th Tour de France

Thomas Voekler gurning again (another one for you Jason)

Head down, concentrate, nearly there

Tejay van Garderen with our flags in the background (courtesy of
France 2 TV) He led all the way up the first ascent, and all the way
up the second, but was caught at the top with 2km to go - gutted!

Full photo gallery here

Friday 19/07/2013   Alpe d'Huez to Briancon

73kms in 2hrs 3mins

To see route in Google maps click here

Saw the start in Bourg d'Oisans. The town is really a bit too small for something on this scale - it really was wall to wall people - you literally couldn't move. Great atmosphere though and lots to see.

Everyone was heading west to the motorway, so we decided to go east to see a bit more of the Alps and miss the traffic - good move.

The clouds and rain moved in which made for some dramatic pictures and made the peaks look even more foreboding than they actually are.

The free aire in Briancon was excellent - on tarmac and flat. Briancon is a nice town - really geared up for skiing.

Dramatic setting for the start

Team Sky getting the warm-up rollers in position

Nice to see the Team Sky bus has a clean windscreen

The TDF leader traditionally has a yellow bike. Chris has just
gone for a saddle and one fork

Off for another hard day on the bike

Looking a bit bleak over the Col de Galibier

Nice aire in Briancon

Full photo gallery here

Saturday 20/07/2013   Briancon to Crots

53kms in 1hr 1min

To see the route in Google maps click here

Short journey to Crots on the shore of a mountain blue lake, busy with watersports. Aire costs €6 to stay plus €2 if you want mains hook-up  -  what a bargain!

We are next to a campsite (who provide the aire) so we can use their facilities. This is the first mains hook-up we have had for almost 3 weeks so Remoska is getting an airing tonight - Patatas Pilar on the menu.

Watched Chris Froome on French TV confirm himself as winner of the TDF - what a fantastic achievement - congratulations to all at Team Sky.

Beautiful scenery between Briancon and Crots

Blue/green glacial lake busy with watersports

An aire with a view!

Full photo gallery here

Sunday 21/07/2013

Because Crots is so nice, with so many things to do, and because we can, we decided to stay another night in Crots (€6)

We have now walked and cycled AROUND the lake, spent 3 hours in Valeria (our inflatable kayak) ON the lake, and spent 30 mins swimming IN the lake - all in fabulous 30° sunshine - perfect. (That's a first for swimming in a glacial lake - not as cold as it sounds, but not far off!!)

We watched the climax to the 100th TDF in Paris on TV - a fantastic spectacle. We feel privileged to have seen and taken part in some of it.

Flat calm lake and stunning scenery

More power from the engine room

Paragliders landing with pinpoint accuracy

The moon rising over a hillside forest (from our dinner table)

Full photo gallery here

Monday 22/07/2013   Crots to Aspres-sur-Buech

74kms in 1hr 24mins

To see route in Google maps click here

Heading for Aspres-sur-Buech for a free aire next to the railway station. We found it fine and needed to fill up with fresh water, but parked everywhere blocking the taps and the grey water disposal were caravans and cars. We finally got one of the cars moved and stretched the hose to fill up with water, then, seeing as all the caravans had taken up all the aire and facilities spaces, we parked up under some trees on the station approach road.

As the afternoon wore on, heavy lorries and fair trailers came and parked next to us and in front of us and behind us - we were beginning to get the message! Finally someone from the latest lorry came over and said the fair is on this street for 7 days. I asked him when it started because we were only here for one night and were in no-ones way. He said it started tonight and we had to move. We tried locating nearer to the station, but kept getting moved on due to showmans caravans parking everywhere. We finally moved altogether to a farmers field 200m away - OK'd it with the landowner, and had a much better pitch than we would have had. (Needless to say the fair didn't start that night and we could easily have stayed where we were)

Aspres-sur-Buech is a lovely town with old, narrow streets and alleys and steeped in history.There are fabulous views from the war memorial clock tower on top of the hill in the middle of the village.

Thunder, lightning and torrential rain from 4:00pm onwards - hope we can get out of this field!

Our original pitch

There is always a church

Nice village, nice countryside

Full photo gallery here

Tuesday 23/07/2013   Aspres-sur-Buech to Mirabel-aux-Baronnies

83kms in 1hr 44mins

To see the route in Google maps click here

If you only get to drive on one road in France, make sure it is the D994/D94 from Aspres-sur-Buech to Nyons. a true drivers road with jaw-dropping scenery around every corner - pure joy.

We are staying in a free aire in Mirabel-aux-Baronnies in a beautiful village down by the river.

The French certainly have got this free aires lark sorted.

The best cherries ever from a roadside seller for €3 per kilo

Don't get too near this in a motorhome

Fabulous free aire in Mirabel-aux-Baronnies

The many steps up to the church

The village was full of roads like this

What a view

Full photo gallery here

Wednesday 24/07/2013

Such a beautiful village, so it had to be another day here. Cycled 15km over some steep hills (good downhills though)

Our intention was to put some money back into the town by having plat du jour at lunchtime. Of the 2 bars (opposite each other) in the village we chose the one we had had a drink in yesterday, and duly sat outside waiting for someone to take our order. 20 mins later no one had attempted to approach us, so we crossed the street and were served immediately - what strange behaviour!

On our re-examination of the village we discovered an art gallery next to the church at the top of the hill. A chalk board outside advertised the opening hours and gave the price of a glass of wine. We went back at 7:00pm and sure enough there were 2 tables outside, one occupied by the lady artist and some friends. The lady artist invited us inside to look at the photographic exhibition - she stayed outside talking to her friends at the table.

The exhibition was actually on the walls of her house (an old converted mill with one huge open space) with unbelievable views out of her windows. The wine was also very cheap, very cold and very good.

Whilst sat outside one of her friends arrived with a cardboard box full of newly picked figs. She immediately offered us the pick of the box - straight from the tree!

A wonderful place in a wonderful village - one for the memory banks.

Breathtaking views

One huge room

With a freestanding wood-burner

Full photo gallery here

Thursday 25/07/2013   Mirabel-aux-Baronnies to Anduze

140kms in 2hrs 56mins

To see route in Google maps click here

Through wine country to Anduze and a free aire by the railway station. This is now a tourist line after the iron ore ran out, and they run two restored steam trains and a diesel electric - very nostalgic.

We drove here today through wine country with a cave, chateau and degustation every 5 kms. We eventually caved in (sorry about the pun) and stopped at Chateau St Maurice sur Eygues and purchased 5 litres of their finest Vin de Table blanc - brilliant from the fridge when it's 38° (like today) and only €10.50.

What would we do without the French?

Next to the railway lines (they only run from 9;00am to 5:00pm)

Restored steam engine

Converted open carriages

Full photo gallery here

Friday 26/07/2013   Anduze to Millau

134kms in 2hrs 34mins

To see the route in Google maps click here

Took a ride on the steam train to St Jean du Gard on the old iron ore route. Lots of steam and grit and soot onto the open carriages - great fun and great scenery for 40 mins each way.

Always wanted to see the Millau Viaduct since it was built, so here we are. Fantastic to cross it - though they do charge you €13.30 for the privilege. An awesome piece of architecture - one of Norman Fosters finest - the scale is unbelievable.

Should have been in a free aire (department 12 Aveyron, number 6819) in Millau, but they now charge €9.60 plus numerous phone calls to get in, but at least we had free Wi-Fi.

We ate out in Millau at the fountain roundabout (Moules frites and Roquefort and walnut salad). Millau has a lot going for it - old architecture, river, lots of bars and cafes, great location and, of course, the bridge.

A nice viaduct

Tickets please

Steam!

Blowing off steam

Steam and diesel power

An even nicer viaduct

Breathtaking

The scale is awesome up close

Moules frites - very nice

 Full photo gallery here

Saturday 27/07/2013   Millau to Albi

124kms in 2hrs 42mins

To see the route in Google maps click here

And so to Albi, where there is a magnificent cathedral by the river. We are in a free, council-supplied aire (department 81 Tarn, number 2362) 200m from the catherdral - what a place. The cathedral and gardens are superb and on a massive scale, (the biggest brick-built cathedral in the world). We need to return here for 4 or 5 days to explore further and to do the city justice.

On our way here we passed close to Roquefort so took the opportunity to call in and take a guided tour round the underground caves and see the production methods. Fascinating stuff, and with some excellent free cheese at the end of it. 

Scorching hot again today in the mid 30's (it's a constant 8° in the Roquefort caves and the tour lasts for an hour - you certainly feel the heat when you finish the tour and step outside!)

There was a massive thunderstorm tonight with torrential rain to clear the air - never thought we would be glad to see rain!!

The full 2.5 km span of the Millau Viaduct

You appreciate the scale of it when you look up

A fault in the limestone that keeps the temperature at 8°

Roquefort cheese - as far as you can see

Fantastic free aire in Albi

This is a BIG cathedral

Most people would be very envious of an organ that size

They obviously have a gardener

 Full photo gallery here

Sunday 28/07/2013   Albi to Mazeres-sur-Salat

151kms in 2hrs 17mins

To see the route in Google maps click here

Heading south now for home. Albi was wonderful - we will definitely be back here to spend some time exploring the world heritage city in full.

A quick motorway journey saw us in Mazeres-sur-Salat on a free aire, 20m away from a weir on the River Salat which runs into the River Garonne just 5km away. 

We are in the foothills of the Pyrenees near St Gaudens on this fabulous free site - this is how aires should be in every country. 6 vans with us tonight - French, Dutch, German, Belgian, Italian and us, and everyone respecting the aire and the facilities provided for us - what a fantastic community!

What a mix of architecture

Very detailed workmanship

Lovely setting for an aire

Mazeres-sur-Salat - perfect

The river Salat

Full photo gallery here

Monday 29/07/2013   Mazeres-sur-Salat to Ainsa

164kms in 3hrs 39mins

To see the route in Google maps click here

Finally heading south for home through the Tunel d'Aragnouet Bielsa in the Pyrenees, into Spain.

Wildcamping in a carpark in Ainsa. On the face of it an unprepossessing typical Spanish town, but climb up the hill on the outskirts of town and you come across a wonderful old town with narrow streets, old stone and heavy wood and fantastic views - what a suprise.

Prices are reasonable, the views are wonderful and the atmosphere is just right. A hidden gem that you would not know was there but for a chance discovery.

Spectacular views over the Pyrenees

The medieval village of Ainsa

Through the arch

View from the bell tower

And a lake as well

The old Calle Major

Just right on a hot day

What a find

Full photo gallery here

Tuesday 30/07/2013  Ainsa to Teruel

373kms in 4hrs 30mins

To see the route in Google maps click here

Good, quiet roads today so decided to make some ground towards home. Stopped in a free aire (number 22929) on Mercadona carpark in Teruel.

Arrived here at 2:00pm so looked around the town in the afternoon. There is a really nice old quarter with the seemingly obligatory stunning cathedral and lots of old narrow streets. It was very busy later on, but when we got there it was so quiet, silent and empty - we thought it was a bank holiday, but it was only the well-observed siesta.

The pedestrian bridge in Teruel

An imposing cathedral

That will take some cleaning

So intricate - how did they do that?

Moorish influences

 Full photo gallery here

Wednesday 31/07/2013   Teruel to Home

405kms in 4hrs 47mins

To see the route in Google maps click here

All motorway home from Teruel so home by 2:30pm. 

Now for the washing machine!!